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Make this Capacitive Touch Sensor - Relay Trigger with Hand Movement

The post explains an effective capacitive touch sensor circuit which may be used for detecting intruders near a priced object such as your vehicle. The idea was requested by Mr. Max Payne.

The  Circuit Request


Hello Swagatam,

Please Post a Capacitive/Body/Touch Sensitive Circuit can be applied on bicycle. Such device seen on car security system, When somebody come closer to car or a simple touch would trigger the alarm for 5 seconds.

How this type of alarm works, the alarm only trigger when somebody come closer (say 30cm) what type of sensor they use?

 

Circuit Diagram




Circuit Image Courtesy: Elektor Electronics

The Design


The capacitive touch sensor circuit may be understood with the help of the following description:

IC1 is basically wired as an astable, but without incorporating a real capacitor. Here a capacitive plate is introduced and takes the position of the capacitor required for the astable operation.

It must be noted that larger capacitive plate will produce better and much reliable response from the circuit.

Since the circuit is intended to work as a vehicle body touch alert security system, the body itself could be used as the capacitive plate, and it being huge by volume would suit the application quite well.

Once the capacitive touch sensor plate is integrated, the IC555 comes into a standby position for the astable actions.

On detecting a "ground" element at a close proximity, which could be the hand of a human, the required capacitance is developed across pin2/6 and ground of the IC.

The above results in an instantaneous development of frequency as the IC starts oscillating in its astable mode.

The astable signal is acquired at pin3 of the IC which is appropriately "integrated" with the help of R3, R4, R5 along with C3----C5.

The "integrated" result is fed to an opamp stage rigged as a comparator.

The comparator formed around IC2 responds to this change from IC1 and translates it into a triggering voltage, operating T1 and the corresponding relay.

The relay may be wired with a siren or a horn for the required alarming.

However it's seen practically that IC1 produces a peak positive to negative voltage pulse at the instant when a caapcitive ground is detected near the plate.

IC2 solely responds to this sudden rise in the peak voltage for the required triggering.

If the capacitive body continues to be at the close proximity of the plate, the peak frequency voltage at pin3 vanishes to a a level which may be undetectable by IC2, rendering it inactive, meaning the relay stays active only at the instant the capacitive element is brought or removed near the plate surface.

P1,P2 may be adjusted for acquring maximum sensitivity from the capacitive plate
For obtaining a latching action, the output of IC2 may be further integrated to a flip flop circuit, making the capacitive touch sensor circuit extremely accurate and responsive

Need Help? Please leave a comment, I'll get back soon with a reply!




Comments

  1. Superb... THX for posting, can this circuit work with 555 alone? & Is this circuit sense the object without contact ?

    ReplyDelete
  2. 555 alone won't be able to interpret the response correctly, therefore the subsequent opamp stage has been added...yes it will sense without any direct contact.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi Swagatam

    Nice idea. But, usually the body of a car/bike is connected to the (-)ve railing of the vehicle's electrical system so, the 555's trigger will always be connected to the ground.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Abu-Hafss,
    While writing the article I had this in mind, but later completely forgot to address it.

    Yes, you are right, the circuit will need a separate power supply using a small SMF battery, which will be switched only when the vehicle is not being used, and during the operational periods the battery will be charged from the vehicle alternator.

    Or alternatively the power can be derived from the vehicle battery itself but isolated using a ferrite transformer DC DC converter.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi Swagatam sir
    I made that Simplest Inverter Circuit that uses 2 nos 100 ohm 10watt,2nos15 ohm 10watt and 2 nos 2n3055 transistor,12 0 12 5 amp transformer,32ah battery when I connected a 60watt bulb the bulb is lighting like an agarbatti only I checked all the components they all r working fine.what will be the issue.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi Vijeesh,

    when I built it, a 60 watt bulb produced full 60 watt bright illumination and lasted for about 30 minutes through a 12V 6.5AH kinetic honda battery.
    The transformer that I had used was rated correctly at 5 amps and it weighed around 5kgs.
    does your transformer weigh that much.
    If it's lighter would mean it's a 2 amp not 5 amps.

    ReplyDelete
  7. ....the transformer is the culprit, try changing it.

    ReplyDelete
  8. hai sir
    It is weighing about 1.8kg only but written as12 volt 5amp

    ReplyDelete
  9. It's surely not 5amps, it could be just 2amps, and also the voltage rating should be 9-0-9V not 12-0-12V

    ReplyDelete
  10. Yes Sir
    You r right the amp rate is very low,I tried with another transformer its working fine.I am doing one more circuit "12V to 220V Inverter 180W by 2N3055"which is in 'Electronic projects circuits'. BD 680 transistor was not available instead they give me BD 140 said its equivalent to BD 680,I made the circuit and its not working,what should be the watt of 22 ohm,330 ohm and 27k resistors.the 2N3055 are getting hot quickly what will be the issue.

    ReplyDelete
  11. BD140 ad BD680 are not even near equivalents

    BD140 is rated for 1amps while BD680 for 4 amps, and it's a Darlington

    You can use TIP127 instead.

    2 ohm should be 5 watt

    2N3055 will become HOT they must be mounted on large heatsinks.

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  12. 27k and 330 ohm 1/4 watt will do.

    ReplyDelete
  13. rest are all 1/4 watt rated.

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  14. Hai Sir
    Thank you very much for the help,I made it and its Woking perfectly well.being a civil engineer,electronics is my hobby,I am so happy seeing it working.thanks again.

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  15. That's great Vijeesh, thanks!

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  16. Hai sir
    Can I increase the number of 2n3055 transistors to 10 nos and get an out put of 500 watt from this circuit. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-ilo8Y6D_dzSVpsR2JvRlhMT0k/edit?usp=sharing

    ReplyDelete
  17. Hi Vijeesh,

    yes that can be done.
    Use TIP127 for Q2, Q5

    Battery AH will also need to be upgraded to the required level, upto 150AH

    ReplyDelete
  18. Yes Sir,its already TIP 127 as you suggested early.Given below are the actual quantity and value used in the circuit except 2N3055 which I am going to increase as you suggested, any change in the value,quantity or connection.
    D1,D2- IN5402 (2NOS)
    Q2,Q5- TIP 127 (2NOS)
    Q3,Q4 - BC549 (2NOS)
    Q1,Q6 - 2N3055 (10NOS) 5 on each side parallel
    R1,R8 - 22 OHM 5WATT (2NOS)
    R2,R3,R6,R7- 330 OHM 1/4 WATT (4NOS)
    R4,R5- 27K 1/4 WATT (2NOS)
    C1,C2-0.47 uf (2NOS)
    Transformer 220 V 50 HZ (Class 200) micro wave Owen transformer (800 watt) that I have to rewind secondary for (500 watt).

    ReplyDelete
  19. 22 ohms will also need to be 10 in numbers, each for the individual 2N3055 bases.

    the trafo primary should be 9-0-9V

    battery = 12V 150ah.

    rest all looks OK.

    Mount TIP127 also on large heatsinks so that it stays cool

    2N3055 will need large finned heatsinks.

    preferably use a small fan for cooling these devices.

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  20. Sir
    500 watt/9 volt =55 amp then I have to use 4 AWG (5.18mm),it will be very hard to wind,any solution boss.

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  21. right, so how much voltage are you intending to use? 24V or 48V? The primary of the trafo must be slightly less in voltage rating than the battery voltage rating

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  22. Boss I have only one 12 volt battery with me I will go with 3nos 9 AWG (2.90mm) in parallel.is that Ok.

    ReplyDelete
  23. good day sir! May i ask if there is a capacitive proximity sensor that uses the negative/ground as the touch/trigger sensor? I want to create an alarm for car and use the body/chassis as sensor. So that when someone comes near, or touch the car, the alarm will sound off. Thank you so much. Unfortunately, your capacitive proximity switch for vehicle security cannot handle a large surface area. It cannot make use of a whole motorcycle body as a sensor. I tried adjusting and replacing the variable resistor to the highest value possible (10Meg) but still no result. Thank you for your response.

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  24. Bugoy, try the above circuit by powering the circuit with a separate 12V battery, in this way you would be able to isolate the circuit from the body ground of the car and use the chassis as the capacitive plate,

    ReplyDelete
  25. Good Day Sir!
    I really admire your enthusiasm in electronics. I myself is also inclined to electronics. Unfortunately, I tried powering it separately but it cannot make use of the whole motorcycle. I guess it is only applicable to small sensor plates. The largest that I have tried is the cover of a metal casserole. Beyond that, it wont function anymore. Can you please suggest some other circuit similar to it? And also a circuit for an isolated 12v to isolated 12v converter. Thank you so much in advance.

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  26. Thanks Bugoy, I don't think such a circuit could be designed which would allow the entire body of the vehicle to behave as the sensor. That's why most vehicles rely on a shock sensor or a vibration detector circuit instead of capacitive proximity sensor concepts.

    I would be publishing a shock sensor circuit soon in this blog, which might be relevant to your application.

    ReplyDelete
  27. Good Day Sir!
    Thank you so much for your feedback. I am experimenting on something similar to your circuit with some modifications thru trial and error. I think I am arriving at my desired result. But, my main problem now is, it should be powered separately. The body of a vehicle is the negative ground. Could you please provide the simplest fully isolated converter so that I could use the vehicle's battery? I cannot make use of another battery because there is no more room for it in my motorcycle. The isolated dc-dc converter should be efficient and will not drain the battery for an overnight use of the alarm which consumes 10mA on standby. Thank you very much for your time and effort.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Hi Bugoy, you can try the following circuit:

    2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQ2R8YaFF8c/U372ZScaZdI/AAAAAAAAG8o/nL51vjRHAkk/s1600/speed+breaker+boost+circuit.png

    D1---D4, T1, R4, R5, R6, VR1 all these may be removed, not required for this application

    The primary side of the coil could be 6 turns of 25mm magnet wire, secondary can also be the same, slight experimentation with the no. of turns will need to be done for getting the precise isolated voltage for the circuit.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Good Day Sir!
    Thank you so much for your response. May I just ask, do the left side and the right side of the transformer share the same ground? Also, what kind of transformer to use? Torroid, pot core, or a conventional transformer? What will I replace T1? Will pin 5 directly connect to ground, or I have to put a 0.01 cap? The circuit should function something like this sir.

    i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a561/butchmillo/sensor_zpsb7031441.jpg

    Im sorry, I used your schematic to edit and visualize the principle.
    I hope you could help me more. Thank you.

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  30. Good day Bugoy,

    Left side ground can be left isolated from the battery ground.

    Transformer core could be any ferrite core but a torroidal core would be ideal.

    Pin5 should be terminated to ground through a 0.01uF capacitor.

    Yes the drawing you have made is correct ,except pin5.

    ReplyDelete
  31. good day sir! Thank you very much for your feedback. I just want to clear some more things before i purchase the parts. Is this a dc-dc isolated converter? What is the diameter of the torroid? What awg magnet wire to use? Is the other end of the primary is positive, while the other end becomes the negative? Is it efficient enough not to discharge an idle motorcycle battery for overnight use with the sensor? Can i connect the sensor wire directly to the battery negative? Considering that the battery negative is connected to chassis. You are so kind sir and helpful. You are heaven-sent. Thank you in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  32. Good day Bugoy,

    yes, It is a DC DC isolated converter circuit, the secondary coil not touching anything in the primary stage of the coil.

    Wire gauge is not critical since the current requirement is low, you can try with a 25 SWG or anything between 0.3mm to 0.5 magnet wire.

    the core dimension is also not important, use any size torroid which accommodates the winding comfortably.

    Connecting the sensor wire to the body won't damage the sensor circuit but I am not able to simulate the results whether it will work as intended or not, you'll have to confirm it practically.

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  33. Hi Swagatam

    I think 6 turns of 0.3mm wire will heat up the mosfet.
    Recently, I have working on a small ferrite transformer for CDI. 22 turns of 0.4mm wire in the primary worked but mosfet was fairly warm (whereas, it should operate at ambient temperature).

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  34. Good Day Sir!
    Thank you for your response. There are some little things that I want to clarify. What does the dots means in the opposite sides of the coil in the schematic sir? And also, can you please teach me how to wire the coil, I am not yet familiar with coils and transformers. What leads of the coil goes where? And also, how to wind the wire in the torroid? Is there a particular pattern to follow? Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. I will update you as soon as I get results. Take care Sir.

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  35. Hi Abu-Hafss,

    The number of turns to be selected depends on the frequency and the required output voltage, As frequency increases the number of turns decreases and vice versa...it works in that way.

    6 turns would be perfect at a certain frequency, but if the frequency is decreased or is not matching with the number of turns, the mosfet will start getting hot.

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  36. Good day Bugoy,

    The dots indicate the start point of the respective winding, but it's irrelevant here since there are just two winding with no center taps. Ignore the dots and start winding without bothering about any particular direction or pattern.

    Use one winding as the primary for feeding the 555 frequency, the other winding could be used as the output. The output winding voltage will need to be checked with a meter for confirming its polarity before connecting the diode and the filter capacitor.

    ReplyDelete
  37. Good Day Sir!
    Thank you. One more thing Sir, how will I wind the coil? Overlapping each other? Alternate spaces? Bifilar method? What Sir? I hope you could illustrate it in a picture or even a hand-drawn picture. I will be buying the parts today. I am so excited about it. What will be the type of electricity feeding the primary? oscillated AC or oscillated DC? I know for a fact that the output in the secondary is isolated DC. Thank you Sir.

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  38. Bugoy, you can do it as shown in the following example circuit:

    image.made-in-china.com/43f34j00PsStMozCCpbD/Toroidal-Power-Choke-Coil-Inductor.jpg

    The input is in the form of oscillating DC

    ReplyDelete
  39. Good Day Sir!
    How are you? I have some not so very good news though. I completed the circuit but unfortunately, there is no output in the coil. Without the mosfet, the reading from PIN3 and GND is 5.24V DC. But when I connect the mosfet, the circuit became a bit shorted and has a reading of a fraction of a volt. The LED indicator from my power supply became dim, indicating that there is a little short on the circuit. What do you think is the problem Sir? I guess I wired the mosfet right, PIN1 is GATE, PIN2 is DRAIN, PIN3 is SOURCE. GATE goes to PIN3 of LM555, DRAIN goes to one end of primary, and SOURCE goes to GND. Thank you for continuing helping me.

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  40. Bugoy, don't use a mosfet, try a TIP122 transistor.

    To begin with use 20 turns for the primary and check the voltage, if it's higher than the required value, gradually go on decreasing the turns by trial and error method until the right number of turns are achieved.

    ReplyDelete
  41. Good Day Sir!
    I used the IRF540 as indicated in the circuit diagram that you provided sir. Is it really normal for the output at PIN3 of LM555 to be 5.24V? I think it is not oscillating to drive the coil. Will the TIP122 oscillate the output at PIN3? How will I know or test if the output from PIN3 is oscillating? Will an LED blink test will do? Moreover, I want to send you a link of my breadboard assembly. Thank you so much for your efforts.

    i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a561/butchmillo/1_zpsd8cc3607.jpg

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  42. Good day Bugoy, if the voltage at pin3 is half of the supply volatge that would possibly indicate it's oscillating, this is due to the approximately 50% duty cycle generated by the IC

    For confirmation you can connect a 1uF capacitor in series with the mosfet/BJT gate/base resistor, if the device still conducts (shows boosted output) will indicate an oscillation other wise there could be a possible fault in the IC circuit.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Good Day Sir!
    I just want to update you in the progress of my project. Unfortunately, it didnt work Sir. The IRF540 heats up in just a few seconds. There is no output voltage in the primary as well as in the secondary of the coil. I followed the schematic properly. The 555 is working because when I connect an LED to pin 3, it blinks rapidly. What could be wrong sir? Is there really a 12V to isolated 12V converter? Thank you so much.

    ReplyDelete
  44. Bugoy, the circuit frequency should be at least 20kHz, and an LED will not blink at this frequency, which capacitor have you used in the circuit, it should be 1nF that's 0.001uF or a 102 capacitor.

    Confirm the frequency, the circuit will keep malfunctioning unless the above is corrected.

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  45. Good Day Sir!
    I used 0.001uF or 102 Sir. But the IRF540 heats up rapidly. Could you please provide a revised schematic that I can follow properly. Thank you so much. I am looking forward to completing this project. Thank you for your patience.

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  46. Bugoy, the referred DC DC converter circuit is perfect, you are not following my instructions properly.

    I said the frequency should be above 20 kHz........ with the shown components the frequency of the circuit could be even above 100 kHz, so first make sure you are getting this frequency.

    You said a test LED blinked at pin3, that's impossible at this frequency.

    I also told you to use a TIP122 and 20 turns at the primary initially and then gradually reduce it to the optimal point, although a 20 turn will also work since the current requirement at the secondary is quite low.

    please follow the above for getting correct results.

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  47. Good Day Sir!
    Thank you for your patience. I will do as what you have told. Do I still need the 33k resistor from PIN5 to positive? I will update you ASAP. Thank you so much Sir. Take care.

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  48. Good Day Sir!
    Do I still need the 33k resistor from PIN5 to positive? Thank you Sir.

    ReplyDelete
  49. Good Day Sir!
    One more thing, is this how I will wire up the coil?

    i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a561/butchmillo/1_zpsd8cc3607.jpg

    Thank you.

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  50. Good day Bugoy, 33k should be entirely removed, only a 0.01uF should used with pin5 to ground.

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  51. yes it's correct...actually the directions are not critical anyway.

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  52. Good day Sir! I will buy TIP122 tomorrow. I have a question sir. Do i need to have a resistor in series with pin3 and base of TIP122? Thank you sir.

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  53. yes it is required, you can use a 10k resistor,

    make sure the TIP 122 is original and not duplicate otherwise it will create more confusions with the results....ask for original ST brand TIP122 as shown here:

    www.bdspeedytek.com/wp-content/uploads/DOC000191372.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  54. Good day Sir!
    Thank you. I will be going now to the electronics store. I will update you later today. I hope this works this time. Otherwise, I will send you a picture of the components I used, for you to see clearly what is wrong. I do not have an oscilloscope, so I could not test the frequency.

    ReplyDelete
  55. One more thing Sir, what will I replace the 64A diode? I am not familiar with that kind of diode. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
  56. Bugoy, If you do it correctly it will surely work.

    sending picture will not help, you'll have to troubleshoot it yourself, a frequency meter is what you will need in case you find the circuit not working...today all cheap DMMs include a the frequency measuring range so that shouldn't be a problem.

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  57. 6A4 diodes are not for you, those are not required.. i think I have mentioned it somewhere...you can apply the positive directly to the common line which joins pin4 and pin8 of the IC555 in the following diagram

    2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQ2R8YaFF8c/U372ZScaZdI/AAAAAAAAG8o/nL51vjRHAkk/s1600/speed+breaker+boost+circuit.png

    ReplyDelete
  58. Good day Sir!
    What I mean is the D5 sir, the 6A4 in the secondary output sir. What you mentioned before sir are the 4 diodes in the positive input to form a bridge rectifier. You did not mention about D5, the 5th diode in the secondary output. I do not know any 6A4 diode sir. What to replace it? Thank you.

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  59. Good day Sir!
    I completed the parts, I followed the schematic properly, but unfortunately, it didnt work Sir. There is no voltage output from primary positive and TIP122 collector. What could be wrong Sir? Here are the components I used.

    i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a561/butchmillo/2014-09-24-1578_1_zps8925758f.jpg

    Thank you so much Sir.

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  60. Bugoy, your parts look correct...

    use 10k for both R1 and R2, this will bring down the frequency to a manageable 48kHz.
    increase the primary to 20 turns, keep the secondary section blank and measure the voltage across the primary, if you see a boosted voltage will confirm the correct working of the circuit, after this you can carry on with the secondary winding section.

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  61. good day sir! Thank you. I will do what you said. Anyway, how will i wire up tip122? Because the first time i tried, it heats up. It seems the primary is shorting out the circuit, because if i remove the coil, tip122 stops heating up. Pin1 base, pin2 collector, pin3 emitter? The coil is already 20 turns sir. Now i will just remove the secondary. Will update you sir. Thank you.

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  62. Good day Sir!
    I have an update for you Sir. I think I finally got it working. But the voltage in the secondary is so low, just a fraction of a volt. But when I connect an LED,it lights up. Also, the circuit is destroying 555. It destroyed two 555 already. Why is that Sir? The frequency across primary positive and collector pin of TIP122 is 35khz. My DMM has a frequency function. I used 10k for both R1 and R2. Thank you Sir for your help.

    ReplyDelete
  63. One more thing Sir, what voltage should I expect from the primary with the secondary momentarily blank? Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
  64. Bugoy, don't use the ferrite ring instead use a ferrite and use 20 turns on it as well, but since the ferrite rod will be thicker and bigger, the length of the wire will be a lot more.

    For an example you can refer this diagram, it has been tested by me.

    https://homemade-circuits.com/2012/09/led-emergency-light-circuit-using-boost.html

    once you complete this boost set up successfully, you can try winding the secondary turns over the primary for getting the required isolated voltage....the number of turns will determine the voltage level of the secondary

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  65. it will depend on the frequency and number of turn parameters...

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  66. hello sir! The TIP122 heats up so fast in just 25 seconds. Also, why is that the secondary output seems like AC. Because when i connect an LED, it lights up in either way, but one way seems brighter than the other. How will i know the positive and negative? Thank you sir.

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  67. hello Bugoy, add a few more turns to the primary, or add a heatsink to the TIP 122 for controlling its heating up.
    The one which is showing max brightness is the correct orientation, add the diode on the line corresponding to the anode of the LED.

    ReplyDelete
  68. I almot forgot Sir, do I need to insulate the primary from the secondary? If yes, what material to use? paper? carton? tape? thank you.

    ReplyDelete
  69. Good day Bugoy,

    IC getting destroyed is strange... anyway to prevent this you can connect only the IC stage positive line to 12V via a 1K resistor and connect only the positive of the coil with direct 12V supply

    ReplyDelete
  70. ...increasing the turns will keep the transistor cool...

    ReplyDelete
  71. yes, an ordinary PVC tape insulation will do.

    ReplyDelete
  72. Good day Sir!
    Hello. I was working on the circuit all day. Unfortunately, even the ferrite rod did not work Sir. It still make the TIP122 very hot. I put a pushbotton switch across positve so I could easily monitor TIP122's hotness. On the bright side of things, the circuit is working as intended, but for only a very short period of time (25 seconds max). But the true purpose of this is to power an alarm overnight. so I guess we-re back to the drawing board Sir. I am so sorry if I bothered you so much already. Thank you Sir.

    ReplyDelete
  73. Bugoy, Make one last attempt, use a 100k pot in place of R2, and adjust this until your TIP122 heat gets down to a manageable level.

    according to me using a small chargeable battery would be a much easier and simpler approach for getting an isolated supply...

    ReplyDelete
  74. ....use 100k pot between pin7 and pin6/2...NOT between pin7 and positive.

    ReplyDelete
  75. Good Day Sir!
    Thank you for your inputs. It really helped. I placed a pot and I can now lower the heat of TIP122 and also adjust the voltage output. I changed my toroid into a bigger one. The voltage range now is 3V to 18V. But there is one thing I noticed. Whenever I play with the pot, there is a spot where the circuit emits a buzzing sound? Like a bee sound Sir. It starts from low pitch up to a high pitch frequency. Where is it coming from Sir? Is that normal?
    As what you have said about a rechargeable battery, it is not possible due to space constraint Sir. I am really amazed on the outcome of our project. Just in case we can perfect this Sir, I would be grateful to send you something as a token of "thank you".

    ReplyDelete
  76. That's great Bugoy, positive results finally.

    The buzzing sound is normal, it indicates lowering of the frequency to an audible range, may be around 2kHz...try to reach a spot where this noise just disappears.

    Keep trying hard, success could be just round the corner:)

    I am sure others also might have learned a lot with your involvement here and the discussion between us...keep it up

    ReplyDelete
  77. Good day Sir!
    How are you Sir? Finally the project is done. I have bad news and good news. The good news first Sir, the circuit is a success. it works as it should be. But the bad news is, it is not appropriate for the application that I want. The capacitive proximity sensor's stray capacitance affects the isolation properties of the isolated dc-dc converter. The capacitive proximity sensor stays triggered when used with the dc-dc converter. I am so sad. With all that effort and countless hours. But the good thing is, I learned so much about it. How transformer isolation works. It was my first time working with coils/transformers. Thank you so much Sir. A separate battery is really the only one solution.
    I have another request though Sir. I have another project in mind. It is about a wireless helmet brakelight. I know there are aftermarket version of it sold on ebay, but I want to create my own. I really like to create my own electronics for my own usage. I made a few several circuits that I got from your website/blogspot. And I am very proud using them. They are very helpful. And the feeling of using your own work is priceless. am thinking of hacking a wireless doorbell or a cheap remote controlled toy car to drive red LED that will be attached to the back of my helmet. But I do not know how to start. Maybe you could help me with the simplest wireless transceiver and receiver that could probably drive 4 to 6 red LED. Also I want the receiver to be as compact as possible for it to be fitted perfectly behind one of my helmet's foam padding. The tranceiver will be attached in parallel to my motorcycle's brakelight switch that operates in 12V.
    Thank you so much Sir.

    ReplyDelete
  78. Good day Bugoy, buck-boost converters or flyback converters are crucial circuits in the field of electronics and that's exactly what you learned in the course of the experiments and now you know well how to optimize these devices, this knowledge will help you whenever you come across such circuit stages in your experiments.

    A wireless brakelight helmet is an interesting project, but how would the commands be supplied to the transmitter for implementing the operations?? pleae specify in detail then we can start with it...

    ReplyDelete
  79. Good day Bugoy, I have understood the concept, it's quite straightforward, I'll try to post the complete design soon in my blog....keep in touch until then.

    ReplyDelete
  80. Thanks Bugoy, yes I am aware of these units, and have published quite a few articles involving these ready made remote control devices,

    along with this option I would also include a DIY circuit having the same features as these units for the required application.

    I'll first finish the previous pending requests and then get busy with your request.

    ReplyDelete
  81. Hello Sir! Thank you. Could you make it as simple as possible and parts should be very common. Because the electronics store here do not provide much items. Maybe the specs should be 4.5v supply for the receiver and 12v for the transmitter. Or maybe i could just use a voltage regulator such as LM78xx just in case your design for the transmitter require a lower voltage. But the receiver is best to be powered by a 4.5v supply such as 3 button cells or 3 AAA batteries. Thank you so much sir.

    ReplyDelete
  82. Hello Bugoy, I think a wireless doorbell circuit will be perfect for the application...while i complete the pending assignments, in the meantime you can buy a wireless doorbell set and do as per my further instructions.

    the following type will be most suitable, although other types can be also be tried

    images.bagittoday.com/0/images/product/202351/Wireless_Door_Bell_900X900_01_0.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  83. Good Day Sir!
    How are you? As for the remote control unit Sir, it is not available here in out country. I do not have paypal or credit card to purchase online. Can you provide a similar circuit for it Sir? Im only relying on the availability of parts provided by the few electronics stores here in our place.
    Thank you so much Sir. Take care.

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  84. Good day Bugoy, buy a simple, cheapest FM wireless mic from market, I'll tell you how to proceed next.

    the mic should be compatible with an FM radio, meaning when spoken on mic the signal should be receivable on FM radios.

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  85. Hello Sir! May i just ask, why cant we just build a simple fm wireless mic? I guess there are a lot of diagrams available and cheaper to build than to buy. But if the project calls for a ready-made unit, i will look for and buy tomorrow.

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  86. Hello Bugoy, yes you can make any suitable one, but the receiver will be a small FM radio, will there be enough space in the helmet to accommodate a small FM radio circuit??

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  87. good day sir! Before i proceed with the project, i just want to know if the idea is foolproof? Will it not accept any interference from other vehicles with radio comm that may result in false triggering of the helmet brake light. Thank you sir.

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  88. good day Bugoy, until it's tried practically for many months nothing can be predicted about the design....cannot guarantee anything without practically testing it.

    The setting will need to be done on some free unused spot on the FM band of the radio in order to avoid false triggering as far as possible.

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  89. Hello Bugoy,

    which circuit did you try? did you try the following one:

    https://homemade-circuits.com/2014/10/wireless-helmet-brake-light-circuit.html

    the circuit in the link is very good, you can definitely try it out, the tank circuit setting can be changed for different units in order to make sure they don't interfere, but it won't allow you thousands of unique sets.

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  90. Hi, can you tell the values for R8 and R9?

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete

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